by Roberta Kaye
March 29, 2002
Don't "Hold the Cheese" ...... when it is Parmigiano-Reggiano! which now has a permanent place in the diet of astronauts aboard the International Space Station. Produced in Italy for an amazing 800 years, it is the first food not expressly designed for space nutrition.
Parmigiano-Reggiano is The Standard, freshly grated, over soup, pasta, vegetables ---- a favorite table cheese enjoyed with olives, nuts, salumi, or with fruit (pear! fig!), balsamico or saba. But it was the ability to counteract bone loss during absence of gravity that led to inclusion in the astronautical food supply.
Parmigiano-Reggiano provides highly palatable nourishment, by breaking down into free amino acids, that are immediately available for the body to metabolize. Further, it is an excellent source of protein, low in fat and cholesterol, rich in vitamins and minerals. Providing quick energy, it is recommended for everyone, children, seniors, athletes, mountain climbers.
Since the Middle Ages, the ingredients are unchanged: milk, rennet, salt, no additives or preservatives.
Consorzio del Parmigiano Reggiano requires that milk production and cheese making
must occur in Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua, Bologna to receive a PDO (Protected Denomination of Origin)
certificate. Pampered cows are fed a controlled diet of locally grown hay, grasses and vegetable feed.
The complementary resources of Parmigiano and Consorzio del Marchio Storico-Chianti Classico were combined in a recent event organized by the Italian Trade Commission (ICE) for the food and wine industries. Cheeses aged 1 - 3 years were paired with 40 incredible Chianti Classico and Riserva wines from 1998, 1999, 2000.
It would be fun to assemble a similar tasting at home!
Comments, feedback invited: Rkaye24@foodevents.com
March 22, 2002
Passover is a joyous holiday commemorating the Israelite Exodus from Egyptian bondage to liberty in The Promised Land. While adhering to traditional and obligatory Passover dishes, the 8 day observance can be a culinary experience as well. Curl up with Passover Cookery: In the Kitchen with Joan Kekst and you will believe. With recipes to accommodate the entire week, these kosher recipes will be referenced all year. Published 2001 by Five Star Publications, Inc., Chandler, AZ. Available at Kitchen Arts & Letters, Inc., 1435 Lexington Avenue (94th St), NYC and elsewhere.
An innovation is multiple choice menus. Choose from Seder I, Seder II, Vegetarian Seder, Low Cholesterol Seder. Select Foods Children Love, or Dishes Made in Advance. Clear recipes include nutritional analysis, and warning notes that assist a novice without frustrating a seasoned cook ("Watch your eyes" when grating horseradish). Spices, herbs and fruit are used in a very modern manner. Especially helpful is a Countdown to create a Kosher-for-Passover home.
Dishes of Sephardic heritage [Spanish or Oriental descent] and Ashkenazi heritage [German or East European descent] add variety to American traditions. Consider: Sephardic Sweet Avocado with ground walnuts, orange and lemon juice, cardamom and honey; Cornish Game Hen w/plum sauce; Veal brisket w/balsamic vinegar, rosemary, tomatoes.
The creator of this largesse, a subscriber to the "Food is Love" philosophy, is Joan Kekst, a Cleveland food columnist, lecturer, kosher cooking instructor -- who also managed to raise 5 children. Those grown children, respective spouses, 8 grandchildren, fortunate guests, some 30+ people, will gather Sundown, April 27, 2002 / 5762 to observe Passover with Joan Kekst.
Salmon Cakes with Caramelized Onions
Onions
3 lbs white onions, thinly sliced
2 T olive oil
dash of salt, dash of sugar
Heat oil in 6 qt heavy-bottomed pot. Saute onions with a dash of salt until limp. Add sugar, reduce head to medium low & continue cooking up to 45 minutes. Stir occasionally. Onions will be a rich, golden color. About 3 cups cooked onions are needed. Meanwhile prepare salmon cakes.
Salmon Cakes
serves 8 as an appetizer, 4 as a main course
1-1/2 lbs cooked fresh salmon
1/2 to 1 C toasted matzo meal
1/3 Cup low fat milk
1/4 Cup mayonnaise
2 T parsley
1 egg lightly beaten
2 T tomato paste
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground white pepper
3 Cups caramelized onions, 2 Cups roughly chopped
2 T vegetable oil +plus 2 T unsalted Passover margarine or vegetable cooking spray
1/4 Cup matzo cake meal
1 tsp paprika
fresh parsley sprigs
Place boned, flaked salmon in a large bowl, cover with 1/2 C toasted matzo meal. Pour milk over matzo meal to moisten. Combine mayo, egg, parsley, tomato paste, 2 C chopped onions, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Combine with fish mixture.
Form salmon cakes into 2-1/2 inch rounds. Heat oil & margarine in a 10" skillet over medium heat. Combine matzo cake meal and paprika, lightly dust on salmon cakes. Fry until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Garnish each salmon cake with a heaping spoon of warm caramelized onions and a sprig of parsley. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Comments, feedback invited: Rkaye24@foodevents.com
March 15, 2002
Planning for the 2006 Winter Olympic Games, Turin, Italy, is under way. The 9 Olympic Cities, collectively known as ALT2 MONTAGNEDOC, presented themselves to New York before a recent lunch at San Domenico, 240 Central Park South (Broadway/7th).
The 9 cities comprising the mountain complex of Torino 2006 will shortly be very well known: Bardonecchia, Cesana, Claviere, Oulx, Pinerolo, Progelato, Sauze d'Oulx, Sestriere, Torre Pellice. This beautiful region, with bountiful snowfall, has always hosted events for international winter sport enthusiasts.
Regional food and wine are the attractions for foodevents.com. Think Caffe Valdostana, an alpine specialty of fortified coffee, offered in a grolla aka coppa d'amicizia or friendship cup. This multi-spouted, lidded bowl, is hand carved of maplewood in traditional designs.
Each friend sips from one of several bocche or spouts and passes around for sipping from the next spout.
An artisanal grolla is a memento for continued use, and endearing as the ritual of friendship it represents.
Genepy, an alpine herbal liqueur not available here, and grappa, are key ingredients. Perhaps after the Olympics? (Maybe this column will help.) My test kitchen and I experimented with a selection of grappas, and genepy substitutes. Recipe, enjoyed with friends, follows.
Caffe Valdostana
multiples of: 8 oz. espresso
4 T sugar
6 oz. grappa* (3 shot glasses)
2 oz. liqueur* (1 shot glass)
juniper berries
cloves
orange peel
cinnamon stick
* Mionetto Grappa Casada and Strega were used in this recipe, but brandy and Grand Marnier work.
While coffee brews, combine ingredients, stirring well to dissolve sugar. Add coffee, mix well. Pour through a strainer.
Note: A grolla is never washed, merely cleaned with a damp cloth.
Try an excellent version at Ristorante La Grolla, 413 Amsterdam Avenue (79th/80th).
Order your own grolla from www.taniservice.com. The site is in Italian, with photos, and easy to use. Tani Andrea will respond in English and is extremely helpful.
Comments, feedback invited: Rkaye24@foodevents.com
March 8, 2002
A class with Rati Lohtia introduced this neophyte to the delights and principles of the Indian kitchen. There's a new confidence about purchasing ingredients for other recipes at home, and enthusiasm for additional classes.
Ms. Lohtia is one of several chefs at Miette Culinary Studio who can expand your culinary universe. The menu consisted of chicken curry (curry secrets revealed), potatoes w/cumin, yogurt salad, Indian rice pudding. Try Rati's celestial version for a rice pudding epiphany. It can be served as dessert with another cuisine. Rati purchases ingredients at Sinha Trading, 120 Lexington (28th St), NY 10016.
Indian Rice Pudding / Chaavel Ke Kheer, approx cooking time 1 hr 15 minutes
1/2 cup basmati rice (rinse well)
4 cups whole milk*
4 cups heavy cream*
3/4 cup sugar
4 green cardamom pods**
1/2 tsp crushed saffron threads
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup sliced almonds
* 8 cups liquid is correct. Basmati rice absorbs a lot of liquid.
** open pods, remove seeds, grind to powder in coffee grinder or mortar & pestle
In a large, shallow pan, bring milk & cream to a boil over high heat, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Add rice, reduce heat to medium-low. Cook approx 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced to custard-consistency, and rice is soft and creamy. Add sugar and mix well. Add cardamom powder, crushed saffron threads, raisins, almonds and mix well. Transfer to a serving bowl and allow to cool. Authentically served at room temperature, it does not lose flavor when chilled.
Miette Culinary Studio is located at 109 MacDougal Street (Bleeker/W 3rd), 2nd floor, NY NY 10012, (212) 460-9322 or www.cookingwithmiette.com.
The comfortable kitchen is equipped with a combination of professional equipment as well as cookware you may already own. Weekday, hands-on-sessions of 10-15 people are held Monday-Thursday evenings 6:30pm-9:30pm. Special Event classes are held weekdays and on occasional weekends. See our event calendar for March and April classes. Future classes will be posted as received.
Head Chef is classically trained Belgian Chef Paul Vandewoude, most recently executive chef of Tartine and Titou in the West Village, where he began his popular cooking classes. He was executive chef in the original Le Zinc, Tribeca. Partner, and President, is Belgian born Mariette Bermowitz, previously a teacher of French language and literature before earning a degree in hotel and restaurant management. Paul and Mariette have been working together since 1995.
Southern Italian classes are conducted by Erica deMane, who did restaurant cooking for eight years, before sharing her knowledge in cooking classes and print. She writes for major publications and authored Pasta Improvvisata (Scribner), the Williams Sonoma Pasta Book, as well as the pasta and Italian vegetable sections for the revised Joy of Cooking (Scribner).
Meatless is mainstream because of Peter Berley's Vegetarian classes. The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen (Regan Books) received an award from the James Beard Foundation in 2001. His career includes several years as executive chef at Angelica's Kitchen.
Comments, feedback invited: Rkaye24@foodevents.com
March 1, 2002
Balmy weather Sun 2/24 did not deter enthusiastic crowds, opening day of the 9th annual New York Restaurant & Foodservice Show, a 3-day event held at the Jacob K. Javitz Convention Center, New York, NY. This is the leading event for professionals in the restaurant, foodservice and hospitality industry, and the largest, most comprehensive foodservice event in the Northeast.
Over 600 exhibiting companies showcase over 1,000 product and service lines in the areas of food products, tableware, furnishings, lighting, service equipment, fixtures, cleaning agents. Many new products, that will eventually be available at the retail level, are introduced at the show.
Lots of good news for consumers. Some of my faves follow.
Ecce Panis, award winning artisan bread company, introduced four new breads. The big crowd pleaser is Plum-Fennel, and they ran out of samples every day. Three others will have vociferous devotees, Sundried Tomato-Oregano, Onion-Scallion, New York Seedless Rye. The new breads were developed by executive Chef Felice Ramella, author of Theories and Techniques for Professional Bakers, to be published later this year by John Wiley and Sons. Ecce Panis (Latin for "Behold the Bread") delivers artisanal breads in the greater New York area and to more than 2,1000 supermarkets nationwide.
Cleancaf (TM) cleaner and descaler for coffee makers and expresso machines,
is a product I've been seeking forever. Non-toxic, biodegradable, odorless. Quick and easy to use weekly
to remove/prevent oil residue and mineral build-up. Manufactured by Urnex Enterprises, Yonkers, NY,
it is available in 3-packs at Starbucks. I happily used it on my Olympia Cremina expresso/cappuccino machine
purchased almost 20 years ago from Zabar's.
Once in almost 20 years Olympia needed a spa visit, and went to Rudy's L&R, 400 W 44th St (9th Ave), (212) 245-4966, M-F 9-5. Rudy also distributes a wonderful coffee from Modena, Caffe Roberta, available in kilo bags.
As I sample other new products, and photos arrive, I will continue adding to this Feature on the New York Restaurant & Foodservice Show.
Comments, feedback invited: Rkaye24@foodevents.com
