by Roberta Kaye
April 20, 2002
My palate was introduced to an exciting product at the New York Restaurant & FoodService Show at the Jacob J. Javitz Convention Center, back in February. Alicia Engstrom of Tsar Nicoulai Caviar enthusiastically led me through a tasting of "American Golden Whitefish Caviar."
While the word "caviar" is used generically to describe all varietal groups of salted fish, it truly, traditionally, refers to the roe (eggs) of Caspian Sea sturgeon roes. The origin of the "mother" fish must be named if it is not sturgeon. This column both identifies and praises "Whitefish Caviar" as accessible, less serious, and equally festive. It is a different, superior product to American sturgeon caviar, from the roe of Hackleback or Paddlefish, which are native to Missouri rivers or raised on paddlefish sturgeon farms.
Recently, a concentrated tasting was held for caviar afficionados unfamiliar with American Whitefish Roes. Tasting notes follow:
American Golden, soft yellow color, mild flavor --- fresh, light, non pretentious, not salty, works-well-with-others personality. Beet/Saffron, brilliant ruby, bracing flavor --- natural coloring drew raves, intriguing combination, lovely finish. Ginger, bright topaz color --- "to die for," gold medal; everyone wanted to try with salmon (smoked & otherwise), scallops, other fish and pair with sake, Belgian beer, gewurtztraminer, riesling. Wasabi, emerald color, exciting taste, gold medal qualifier; thoughts of crab cakes, salmon croquettes, seared scallops, cucumber flowers w/wasabi centers; pair with Asian beers. Truffled Tiger Eye, as in the gemstone --- subtle earthy flavor.
Our tasting proceeded with crustless toast points (Pepperidge Farm very thin sliced Whitebread), rather than blini (small buckwheat pancakes) and Creme fraiche, a cultured whole cream. Our concensus was that chopped egg and onion were unnecessary, and would compete with an otherwise clean, exciting taste. Rich creme + caviar + toast + fruity sparkling beverage = foodevent bliss.
Dedicated spoons made of mother-of-pearl or horn were used, because roes and metal have an unpleasant chemical reaction. Scallop shells, from past marathons with coquille St. Jacques, were the perfect size for apportioning a selection of Whitefish Roes, 5 to each taster's plate.
Menu created to complement Whitefish Roes tasting:
- Villa Sandi Prosecco
- Tattinger Champagne
- David Burke (Park Avenue Cafe) Foie Gras Gourmet Pops
- 5 Whitefish Roes, as above
- Toast points
- Creme Fraiche
- Pate
- Lemon carpaccio w/lavender salt & lavender flowers
- Cabbage salad w/walnuts
- Cornarea 1999 roero arneis (Vias)
- Smoked salmon w/cucumber & spring onion
- Strawberries balsamico, meringue cookies, turkish lokum
* Pasta with Beet/Saffron Roe. Add cubed beets and saffron threads to create intense layers of flavor. A pasta shape w/crevices, such as Barilla farfalle is suggested, so ingredients can nestle in the folds. Use packaged, cooked beets from France, along with their juice. Preparation: Melt some butter. Add creme fraiche (or heavy cream) and combine. Stir in caviar, cubed beets & juice, saffron threads. Mix with al dente pasta. The result is a luscious Easter pink color and an elegant pasta.
* 3 brilliantly colored dollops of Beet/Saffron, Ginger, Wasabi Roes arrayed over Salmon filets, with asparagus spears, a color coordinated presentation.
* Egg white omelet with Golden Whitefish Roe, or simply fold into scrambled eggs.
American Whitefish Caviar is sold in Whole Food Markets across the U.S., 2 oz $7.90; 3.5 oz. $13.50. For additional recipes and on line ordering, see www.tsarnicoulai.com.
Storing Note: Jars or tins should be individually wrapped in plastic sandwich bags, placed in a bowl of ice cubes, and positioned in coldest part of your refrigerator. Replace melted ice as necessary.
Tsar Nicoulai, based in San Francisco, CA, pioneered the farming of California sturgeon in 1983. Acclaimed chefs Charlie Trotter, Wolfang Puck, Jacques Pepin, Rick Moonen offer testimonals. It is regularly served at The Clift, Pan Pacific and Mark Hopkins hotels in San Francisco; Phoenician, Scottsdale; Meadowood, Napa; Lodge at Vail; Bellagio, Las Vegas.
Comments, feedback invited: Rkaye24@foodevents.com
April 5, 2002
Chicken soup is kitchen aromatherapy for me and the dog.
This 4-in-1 timesaver provides 2 soups, chicken for self and guest(s), chicken and vegetables for dog, And adapts to all cuisines.
Any number of chicken breasts (or whole chickens) plays, although two whole chicken breasts are used in this example.
Remove skin, cut off fillets and set aside.
Simmer whole breasts (sans fillets) to make basic chicken soup. Stage-I-Soup is flavored only w/peeled carrots, celery, parsley. Remove chicken and vegetables when done. Allow to cool for dog.
Skim soup. After allowing to cool, refrigerate several hours, or overnight. Fat will rise to the surface for easy removal. Soup will have delicate, chicken flavor. My dog loves chicken soup, so 1 Cup Stage-I-Soup is set aside for Pronto.
Stage-II-Soup can now receive some additional seasonings: garlic, onion or leek, peppercorns, salt, bayleaf, parsnip. Simmer to reduce.
Following day: Add tortellini and peas to already prepared brodo. Fillets are ready for quick sautee or grill with vegetables. Prepare a green salad. Open a bottle of wine. Be pleased that the whole family is eating well.
Try during a busy week!
Requests for dog recipes and feedback may be addressed to: Rkaye24@foodevents.com
