If Mad King Ludwig of Bavaria had been a sugar artist, he would no doubt have apprenticed to Margaret Braun. Braun is an artist whose media happen to be sugar paste, marzipan and royal icing. Cakewalk is more like David Hockney's notebooks, than a cookbook.
Cakewalk is far more than a primer for Braun's techniques, though it is full of clearly written how-tos; this is an artist's sketchbook, a trip through the looking glass that is the creative process. She shows us her sketches, describes her "late night conversations with the corn goddess" (the woman on the Argo cornstarch box) and takes us through each of 15 cakes, step by painstaking step. While some of the techniques are traditional (How to Make a Paper Cornet) Braun puts her own spin onto them. There is a page with nothing but the motif called "Running Dog" printed on it. Braun suggested one trace it and pipe, thinking of the sound of greyhounds at the race track.
"...callused paws slapping gravel-babadum,badadum,badadum,badadum-muffled by cheering masses." Braun, who grew up in a family of musicians, talks about piping in 4/4 time. Whether you do or don't, the Running Dog exercise definitely loosens you up and readies you for piping.
The cakes are daunting, of course, but Braun deconstructs them into a series of do-able steps. And one can take her techniques and make, say, fondant marbles to put on your own cakes, cupcakes or cookies. I do wish Braun had included a troubleshooting guide. Sometimes fondant or marzipan just will not be tamed, and some expert advice on when to roll and when to fold 'em would have been appreciated.
Cakewalk is a book that will appeal to artists as well as bakers. I suspect I'm going to be giving quite a few copies as Christmas gifts. Excuse me, while I go make marzipan lemons...
By Sukey Pett
